Friday, 9 February 2007

BC/ABC - 9 February

Hello to all back home.
First of all we are all OK. We got a bit buggered by our porters - not as many as agreed and not as much work as we agreed either but instead asking for more money. I had to come back down to Rilong today and put some more pressure that things are working as we discussed. I trust it worked out in the end. Things in China, for those who don't know, have a logic of their own sometimes at odds with ours, especially when doing transactions.

We had the BC in Mulozi. My memory served me badly and the distance between our BC and our proposed ABC is double than I remebered so we had to move our BC, yesterday 5oom or so higher. We hope to have ABC all geared up by tomorrow and jump at the wall on the 11th (or 12th the latest) - one day later than planned.

Over the last three or four days it started snowing a bit in the evenings and mornings but not enough to cause a problem.

Everybody sends their love back home and is thinking about our loved ones. Tommorrow I'll be back in BC/ABC and hopefully will have no reason to come all the way down again (to kick butt or otherwise) till we climbed the rock.

Monday, 5 February 2007


We arrived yesterday to Rilong. As ususal I took advantage of my headache to talk to a bucket last night. The boys seem excited about being here and so am I. Never really been in such a big group before, usually climbing by myself or in a team of two so the sight of so much luggage took me aback a bit. Seems like i underestimated our need of horses. I thought 4 or 5 but we ended up with 8 for the way in and we agreed for 6 for the way out. He San Ge, our local contact is quite helpful and my meagre mandarin seems to be doing the trick.

This morning we were supposed to set off but tiredness and lack of sorting out the gear the night before made us delay the departure for BC for tomorrow morning. Just as well since this helps with acclimatisation. We are at 3260m altitude and will set up BC at 3900m with the hope for an ABC at 4700 but will see to that. In BC doen't seem like we will have phone network but I was assured by HSG that we will have on the top of the mountain. So i guess will better get to that top so we can call home or otherwise will be carying our little devices for nothing...

I am optimistic (when sunny), maybe a bit too much according to Leslie, but what does he know...I'll show him when I make that call...

Weather is good although a bit cool, and we are in good shape - litle surprise though since we are still in the village.

Till next message all our best wishes to those at home and those thinking about us!

PS: something I forgot to do and here is as good a place as any: many thanks to my friends who helped in no small way in different ways over the last few days - Calvin, Geordie and Jeff - cheers on you mate!

Sunday, 4 February 2007


we are about to leave Chengdu. Yesterday we met Gao Ming of the Sichuan Mountaineering Association and we obtained our permit for the modest sum of 700 USD. I was happily surprised to see entering the room Zhao Kai(followed by a guy filming) whom i met just the weekend before at the Ice Comp in Beijing which he won. We shook hands, posed for the camera and made plans to meet in siguniang where they are headed to make a film about ice climbing in Shuangqiao Gou. Done shopping in carrefour, had a massage and went to bed. Now, at 7am we took off to Rilong where we have to arrive quite early in the afternoon so we are allowed to cross the pass.