Friday, 30 March 2007
The End
After our (Nusu and myself) departure the remaining three, already a quite homogenous team by now, managed to put up a new route, roadside at the end of Shuangqiao gou:
The story in (Romanian) here.
The story in (Romanian) here.
Tuesday, 27 February 2007
Working hard in Shuangqiao gou
After we relocated to Shuangqiao gou and we had some more "events" with a haulbag the porters forgot in ABC but counted for the pay (go figure) I managed to climb a WI5+ with Zhao Kai who was there on an ice climbing fest and I withdrew from a WI5 which I hopped on with Nusu due to poor ice conditions. After further thought, calendar consultation and the certitude that with the days Nusu and myself had left will be able to achieve nothing at all we decided to return to Guangzhou- me to arrange folr most of the gear to be sent y train and to tend to some family business long overdue and Nusu to spend last the three days he had left before his departure climbing on the limestone of Yangshuo.
In the meantime Leslie, Liviu and Esposito with two more weeks on their hands (and for Leslie with family visiting in Rilong soon) there was still some time for serious business. After eyeing Potala Peak and deciding against due to the size of the project they settled for a shorter line on a smaller wall, right off the main road in Shuangqiao gou which we noticed while driving there the first day. With no logistics to be sorted out involved and requiring only climbing the boys are hoping to come home with a line in the bag.
In the last message, from today, it seems that they are bivying and that the line doesn't let itself too easily in while the snow seems to keep coming. Fingers crossed and as soon as I have more news about their progress will post it up here.
In the meantime for me the bell calling me to class is ringing....
Cosmin
In the meantime Leslie, Liviu and Esposito with two more weeks on their hands (and for Leslie with family visiting in Rilong soon) there was still some time for serious business. After eyeing Potala Peak and deciding against due to the size of the project they settled for a shorter line on a smaller wall, right off the main road in Shuangqiao gou which we noticed while driving there the first day. With no logistics to be sorted out involved and requiring only climbing the boys are hoping to come home with a line in the bag.
In the last message, from today, it seems that they are bivying and that the line doesn't let itself too easily in while the snow seems to keep coming. Fingers crossed and as soon as I have more news about their progress will post it up here.
In the meantime for me the bell calling me to class is ringing....
Cosmin
Tuesday, 20 February 2007
No winners and no loosers
NO WINNER AND NO LOOSER ON A MOUNTAIN… NEVER A MOUNTAIN WON SOMETHING ON A CLIMB! FOR CLIMBERS IT IS THE SAME - THERE IS NEITHER WINNER NOR LOOSER IN A FAILED EXPEDITION SINCE THERE WAS NO WAR WITH ANYBODY EXCEPT WITH OURSELVES - BUT THAT’S ANOTHER STORY. EACH ONE OF US HAD TO DECIDE WHAT HE GAVE AND WHAT HE KEPT IN THOSE FEW DAYS OF CHAOTIC AND HARDLY IMAGINABLE EFFORT TO MANAGE TO ACHIEVE OUR OBJECTIVE. THESE ARE THE FACTS: WE FAILED AND THAT”S ALL! IT IS THAT SIMPLE! WE FAILED BECAUSE OF OUR WEEKNESS AND LACK OF ADEQUATE COORDONIATION BETWEEN THE EXPEDITION MEMBERS AND WITH THE LOCALS...
THE NW WALL OF SIGUNIANG SHAN 4 IS A HARDLY IMAGINABLE OF A HUGE PROJECT, SO BIG THAT WE LOST OURSELFS BEFORE GETTING EVEN ON ITS DOORSTEPS. THE MOUNTAIN DIDN'T FIGHT WITH US AND, AT LEAST TRUE FOR ME, I DIDN’T FIGHT WITH ANYBODY EXCEPT MYSELF!
THERE IS NO WINNER AND NO LOOSER IN THIS AMAZING STORY!!
LESLIE FUCSKO
THE NW WALL OF SIGUNIANG SHAN 4 IS A HARDLY IMAGINABLE OF A HUGE PROJECT, SO BIG THAT WE LOST OURSELFS BEFORE GETTING EVEN ON ITS DOORSTEPS. THE MOUNTAIN DIDN'T FIGHT WITH US AND, AT LEAST TRUE FOR ME, I DIDN’T FIGHT WITH ANYBODY EXCEPT MYSELF!
THERE IS NO WINNER AND NO LOOSER IN THIS AMAZING STORY!!
LESLIE FUCSKO
Wednesday, 14 February 2007
The mountain won
As often happens the mountain won this time. That makes this endeavour so exciting and compelling. To return after success to re-live it or to return after dissapointment to change the odds.
It seemed yesterday that this time there will be little scope for success in achieving a line in the time frame we had and with the resources we had and remaining in ABC became counterproductive the least. This combined with an increasingly snowy weather front setting in made us decide yesterday evening to come down, initially to BC in Mulozi then last night to Rilong.
We still have some gear up on the mountain and we are arranging for that to come down in the next couple of days as well. With time left we are putting some warmth in our systems here in Rilong and as soon as all our gear reaches us will scout the area for alternative objectives, some of which include nice icefalls in Shuangqiao gou.
The Englishman we met, Rufus, was also chased down by a combination of lack of required permits and unconsolidated snow on the line he had chosen.
The "Fourth Sister" might delay this winter an ascent but there is always the promise of return.
Cosmin
It seemed yesterday that this time there will be little scope for success in achieving a line in the time frame we had and with the resources we had and remaining in ABC became counterproductive the least. This combined with an increasingly snowy weather front setting in made us decide yesterday evening to come down, initially to BC in Mulozi then last night to Rilong.
We still have some gear up on the mountain and we are arranging for that to come down in the next couple of days as well. With time left we are putting some warmth in our systems here in Rilong and as soon as all our gear reaches us will scout the area for alternative objectives, some of which include nice icefalls in Shuangqiao gou.
The Englishman we met, Rufus, was also chased down by a combination of lack of required permits and unconsolidated snow on the line he had chosen.
The "Fourth Sister" might delay this winter an ascent but there is always the promise of return.
Cosmin
Monday, 12 February 2007
Still setting camps
we stayed in BC a couple of days. Now we moving it up to 4050m and we hope to set up ABC at around 4900m. we met an englishman, Rufus, who has plans of his own here. Everybody is OK.
Cosmin
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Cosmin
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Friday, 9 February 2007
BC/ABC - 9 February
Hello to all back home.
First of all we are all OK. We got a bit buggered by our porters - not as many as agreed and not as much work as we agreed either but instead asking for more money. I had to come back down to Rilong today and put some more pressure that things are working as we discussed. I trust it worked out in the end. Things in China, for those who don't know, have a logic of their own sometimes at odds with ours, especially when doing transactions.
We had the BC in Mulozi. My memory served me badly and the distance between our BC and our proposed ABC is double than I remebered so we had to move our BC, yesterday 5oom or so higher. We hope to have ABC all geared up by tomorrow and jump at the wall on the 11th (or 12th the latest) - one day later than planned.
Over the last three or four days it started snowing a bit in the evenings and mornings but not enough to cause a problem.
Everybody sends their love back home and is thinking about our loved ones. Tommorrow I'll be back in BC/ABC and hopefully will have no reason to come all the way down again (to kick butt or otherwise) till we climbed the rock.
Cosmin
First of all we are all OK. We got a bit buggered by our porters - not as many as agreed and not as much work as we agreed either but instead asking for more money. I had to come back down to Rilong today and put some more pressure that things are working as we discussed. I trust it worked out in the end. Things in China, for those who don't know, have a logic of their own sometimes at odds with ours, especially when doing transactions.
We had the BC in Mulozi. My memory served me badly and the distance between our BC and our proposed ABC is double than I remebered so we had to move our BC, yesterday 5oom or so higher. We hope to have ABC all geared up by tomorrow and jump at the wall on the 11th (or 12th the latest) - one day later than planned.
Over the last three or four days it started snowing a bit in the evenings and mornings but not enough to cause a problem.
Everybody sends their love back home and is thinking about our loved ones. Tommorrow I'll be back in BC/ABC and hopefully will have no reason to come all the way down again (to kick butt or otherwise) till we climbed the rock.
Cosmin
Monday, 5 February 2007
Rilong
We arrived yesterday to Rilong. As ususal I took advantage of my headache to talk to a bucket last night. The boys seem excited about being here and so am I. Never really been in such a big group before, usually climbing by myself or in a team of two so the sight of so much luggage took me aback a bit. Seems like i underestimated our need of horses. I thought 4 or 5 but we ended up with 8 for the way in and we agreed for 6 for the way out. He San Ge, our local contact is quite helpful and my meagre mandarin seems to be doing the trick.
This morning we were supposed to set off but tiredness and lack of sorting out the gear the night before made us delay the departure for BC for tomorrow morning. Just as well since this helps with acclimatisation. We are at 3260m altitude and will set up BC at 3900m with the hope for an ABC at 4700 but will see to that. In BC doen't seem like we will have phone network but I was assured by HSG that we will have on the top of the mountain. So i guess will better get to that top so we can call home or otherwise will be carying our little devices for nothing...
I am optimistic (when sunny), maybe a bit too much according to Leslie, but what does he know...I'll show him when I make that call...
Weather is good although a bit cool, and we are in good shape - litle surprise though since we are still in the village.
Till next message all our best wishes to those at home and those thinking about us!
Cosmin
PS: something I forgot to do and here is as good a place as any: many thanks to my friends who helped in no small way in different ways over the last few days - Calvin, Geordie and Jeff - cheers on you mate!
C
This morning we were supposed to set off but tiredness and lack of sorting out the gear the night before made us delay the departure for BC for tomorrow morning. Just as well since this helps with acclimatisation. We are at 3260m altitude and will set up BC at 3900m with the hope for an ABC at 4700 but will see to that. In BC doen't seem like we will have phone network but I was assured by HSG that we will have on the top of the mountain. So i guess will better get to that top so we can call home or otherwise will be carying our little devices for nothing...
I am optimistic (when sunny), maybe a bit too much according to Leslie, but what does he know...I'll show him when I make that call...
Weather is good although a bit cool, and we are in good shape - litle surprise though since we are still in the village.
Till next message all our best wishes to those at home and those thinking about us!
Cosmin
PS: something I forgot to do and here is as good a place as any: many thanks to my friends who helped in no small way in different ways over the last few days - Calvin, Geordie and Jeff - cheers on you mate!
C
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